Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Okavango Delta Welcome



A few days earlier, after leaving the colonial grandness of The Victoria Falls Hotel, we made our way by road, even passing a pack of wild dogs on the side of the road, to Kasane Airport, which was much more modern than I was expecting.


  In fact, in that Airport in Zimbabwae, we had better, free wifi than we had experienced in many other places.  There was a steady stream of people coming and going, to and from safaris, hysterically many of whom had decided needed an entire wardrobe of matching kahki clothes, hiking boots and other gear which defied the actual needs of a 'safari' of sitting in a very comfortable Lodge 4WD and taking photos - no trekking involved.


  Anyway, a very young, good looking guy in a smart uniform came out to ask our names, guide us to check in, arrange our bags to be collected, and introduced himself as our pilot, for our small aircraft flight for just over an hour or so to the airstrip of Xakanaxa - my birthday base.  To say I was hesitant of small planes is an understatement, however, there being no other way to reach our destination, and convincing myself that hundreds of others had gone before me (and I only knew about one disaster that killed six people), I took my allocated seat in the rear of the six seater plane, beside quite a bit of luggage and behind another couple.  John, my husband, who was experienced in small planes and had been reassuring me, was allocated the front seat next to the pilot.  This was not what I expected - whose hand and arm was I going to grip on take off and landing, and when the turbulence occurred, and when I was scared and wanted to cry?  I was not happy at all.


Take off and the first fifteen minutes were very tense for me.  I was expecting to be terrified, of feeling very ill and feeling like I was just moments away from my imminent death.  But I wasn't!  With mind over matter convincing I started to relax and enjoy the view.  The absolute vastness of nothingness blew me away.  As far as I could see, there was brown land, with clumps of dull, green trees and bushes, with scattered waterholes.  I could see one, solitary, dead straight, dirt road with not one car on it.  Where did it go to?  Who used it?  It also appeared we were roughly following this road.  I checked out the pilot and could just make out his dashboard instruments over his shoulder.  I could see the fuel gauge, the horizontal indicator thingy, the compass, the speedo thingy, his clock - it all looked good -- no flashing lights or other warning signals going off.  I looked at the back of John's head - he seemed okay, looking through the front windscreen, camera in hand and occasionally chatting to the pilot.  Back to my window, and I noticed some dark shapes at a waterhole and realised I had a bird's eye view of elephants, and that inspired me to keep looking for more waterholes and counting elephants and looking for other animals, like giraffes and rhinos. Our flying time passed quickly, and another glance at the instrument panel and I could detect our descent, and then what appeared to be a wide dirt road but was really our landing airstrip.  Our landing was quicker than I expected, a bit bumpy, a bit noisy but so exciting - we were finally here - here, far from anywhere!  I was a bit stiff from being cramped in but felt okay, but one look at John told a different story.  He was green, sweaty and very quiet.  Our Lodge driver bundled us and our luggage into the open safari vehicle and we were off, through the bush, to our African glamping adventure.
 


On this trip, we had deliberately chosen three different types of camps so we could experience three different types of African safari adventure.  Our first was a land-based camp, and our last was on a river houseboat.  This camp was chosen because it was in the Okavango Delta, where the massive amounts of rain waters from the wet season gather before draining away into the river system.  A complex, intricate maze of waterways fan around this vast area.  To the visitor, many of the waterways look like each other, and it is woefully easy to lose your direction.  To the many people who work at the Lodges and have grown up in this environment, individual waterways are as easily identifiable as main streets in our home towns are.  There are areas of solid ground where the vehicles track and follow all the wild animals you could hope for.  There are also small boats that can take you for a cruise to see the many other creatures that inhabit this area.




It probably really is a stretch to say we were camping.  A gravel path led in one direction from the reception building to the lounge, restaurant and deck areas, and in another direction to individual 'tents'.  Up the five or so wooden stairs to our front 'deck' we got our first 'Out of Africa' safari feel... the small wooden table with two canvas chairs and an oil lantern, overlooking the reedy edges of this part of the Delta.  Unzipping of the flyscreen doorway revealed our bedroom.... suddenly I was channelling Katherine Hepburn.  There were a beautiful, big bed centred in the room, with solid timber side tables, a dressing table, a desk, hanging lanterns and candlesticks with drippy candles, there were beautiful, worn carpets and leather chairs.  On a shelf behind the bedhead, there was also matches, a torch, bug spray and a siren thingy in case of a middle of the night emergency.... I guess like a lion entering your tent, or a stampeding buffalo bailing you up.  There are no phones where you dial 9 for reception and between about 8pm and 7am there is no electricity either for lights, and of course it goes without saying, there is no mobile reception or internet.  You can't leave your tent by yourself in the night time due to the wandering wild animals through the camp, so if you need help of any sort during the night, you set the siren thingy off and someone will come to you from the staff quarters.
 
 

Also behind the bed was another wooden door, with a square of holey wire inserted at viewing height.  This door led to our tent's bathroom and you could check through the wire before entering to make sure there were no monkeys or other creatures in there.  There were walls and a roof but they weren't connected to each other.  There were more lanterns and candles, a wooden ladder with huge, white, fluffy towels, there was a shower on one side, a big basin area and mirror in the middle, and a proper flushing loo on the other.  We were not able to leave any toiletries bags or cosmetics in the bathroom, as the baboons have been known to enjoy many hours playing with toothpaste, shave foam, lipsticks and the like, whilst unaware guests have been out spotting animals.
 

 
 

The day’s routines were like our previous safari camp’s – early morning wake up with a hot drink and something small to eat, safari for a few hours and back to camp for a slap up brunch, then time to rest, nap, read, charge batteries, edit photos and chat to other guests, then high tea at 3pm of delightful savoury morsels and sweet cakes, back into the vehicles for another few hours of safari with sundowners and canapés in the bush somewhere to watch the sun setting, back to camp for drinks on the deck, followed by a wonderful dinner, swapping stories and photos with other guests, discussing the history, culture and geography of Botswana, the Delta in particular, and being escorted by lantern light back to your tent to sleep and dream, ready for the next day’s adventure.  So easy for the days and nights to slip by in this relaxed routine.
 
 

 

 

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